Bob Freeman's Surfing Memories

... Hawaii re-visited

Story May 2006

I was stoked to return to Oahu and find plenty of surf in Waikiki and on the North Shore. Peggy and I stayed in Waikiki right on the break at Queens. From our balcony we could watch the surfing at Queens, Canoes and Pops. The surf averaged chest-high with some bigger sets. Queens and Pops were especially fun. I didn't surf Ala Moana bowls, Kewalos or Kaisers as they were still a little dirty from all that nasty run-off from the rains. We hooked up with friend, Jerry Quimbly for a little surfing and a quick tour of Diamond Head and Honolulu.

After a couple days surfing and shopping South Side, we rented a car and drove to the North Shore to spend a week there with former Melbourne Beach local and MTV Surf Girls star April Grover near Haleiwa. Her Mom, Linda, was also there. We had a great time with them. Linda and I were dawn patrol buddys. I was stoked to enjoy a week of surprise North shore swell (chest-high to 3 feet overhead). Surf was fun the whole time at Lani's, Jocko's, Chun's Reef, Rocky Point, Pipeline and Sunset Beach. It was really good to hang with old friend and former Sebastian Inlet terror and Pipeline Champ, Jeff Crawford at his home at Rocky Point. Jeff still charges Rocky Point and Pipeline and is much respected there by other locals. Jeff winning the Pipeline Masters was no fluke... he was a finalist every year for 12 years.

Jeff Crawford and me ... Rocky Point

Underwater pic of Pipeline's reef

Beautiful East side

I have lotsa video and pics to share (it will take a few more days to post them all).

Below are clips of Jocko's (the lefts) and Chun's Reef (the rights). Both breaks are next to Lani's and are sometimes the best spots to surf when the rest of the North Shore is too small. The waves are easy to ride, break on outside reefs. Chun's has fun inside reefs.

"SunsetBeach" is a short clip of a local catching an easy ride at Sunset Beach before I paddled out.
The tide was moving in and the swell was dropping some, but there were still plenty of waves shared by a small and friendly group of locals.

Sunset Beach
Jocko's and Chun's Reef (short)
Jocko's and Chun's Reef (long)


We really enjoyed our time on the North Shore. We explored Waimea Falls Park, did lotsa great snorkeling, grilled Mahi Mahi for dinner that was caught that morning and ate lotsa shaved ice in Haleiwa. I surfed every day. With the exception of getting caught by a cleanup set at Chun's... I never paddled through a breaking wave the whole time I surfed North or South shores. Most spots break out on the reefs, ending in deeper water. Waves don't continue to roll in and break on the beach. Spoiled by easy, dry paddleouts and puuuuurfect peeling, constantly reforming waves. I'll return soon!

Much Aloha and Mahalo to Jerry, Linda, April and Jeff for all their hospitality.

Waimea Falls Park

fun snorkeling at shark's Cove, North Shore

Beautiful East side